This tutorial is not as detailed as I would like it to be! I did the photos before my baby was born but I’m attempting to write it up during nap time. I hope it makes sense!
It is specifically for THIS PATTERN but you can adapt the theory to any ripple pattern.
Basically you need to fill the gaps with different height stitches. I used UK terms here.
The top and bottom edges of the ripple are different. I will talk you through making the top edge straight first as it is the easiest one.
You make TR stitches in the tops of your decreases, then HTR stitches in the next two stitches, then DC stitches in the next two stitches and then slip stitch across the top of your increases. MAKE SURE to do your slip stitches LOOSE because otherwise you won’t be able to work out of them for your border.
This is the bottom edge of the ripple. Working out of the wrong side of your foundation row is TRICKY. I have made a few ripples straight now and this was the easiest one because when I made my initial foundation chain I worked out of one loop only, rather than two. This is a little fiddly for the foundation chain but it makes it so much easier to make it straight later on.
It’s the same theory – use different height stitches to fill the gaps but because you are working out of the bottom of the stitches it’s a bit more of a bodge job. This time, you make slip stitches along the bottom of the decrease stitches, then two DC stitches, then two HTR stitches.
Then it is a bit different: work ONE TR stitch into the bottom of the increase. Then in that SAME STITCH, make a 2TRtog going into the next stitch. This is effectively a decrease stitch. I am not sure how to explain it any more clearly than that I’m afraid. Then, make another TR into the same space that the 2TRtog ended up in.
(so you have two stitches to fill … put a TR in the first one, and then do a decrease that starts in the first and ends in the second. Then, put another TR into the 2nd stitch.)
That’s the theory for making it straight anyway.
You’ll need to bodge the corners a bit, bearing in mind that you’ll have a tall gap on one end and a short gap on the other. I did a row of TRs down the side so that you can work out of the “bar” of the stitch to make the other side of the edging.
Then when you have a “valley” at the end rather than a “peak”, you’ll need to bodge it a bit and pull your stitches up quite tall to make them fit.
And that, my friends, is how I make a ripple to be straight. It’s not perfect, but it works for me.