Bullseye Squares Pattern

In order to make these squares, you first need to make a circle. I’ll talk you through it step by step, but you will need to know how to make the following stitches (UK terms):

1. Chain stitch

2. Slip stitch

3. Double crochet (DC)

4. Half Treble crochet (HTR)

5. Treble crochet (TR)

Step 1: cast on

Step 2: Chain 4, and then join to make a ring

Step 3: Chain 3 – this counts as your first TR stitch

Step 4: Work 11 TR stitches into the ring. This makes a total of 12 stitches when you include the first chain 3.

It’s important to have 12 stitches because it divides by four. When we get to the square part, this means you have an even number of stitches for each side.

Step 5: Slip Stitch into the third chain of your first chain 3.

Step 6: Cast off and cut your yarn.

Steps 7 and 8: Tie your next colour. Put your hook through the top of the stitch,and pull the yarn through to the front.

Steps 9 and 10: Chain 3 (this counts as one TR stitch) and then work one TR stitch into the same space.

Step 11. Work 2 TR stitches into each stitch. This is increasing in each stitch. You should end up with 12 sets of two stitches, so the total for this round is 24. Join to the last chain of your initial chain three, cast off and cut your yarn.

Step 12. For round three: Repeat steps 7-9. This time, you will work 2TRs into the first stitch, and then 1TR into the next stitch. Repeat this all the way around – 2TR in one stitch, 1TR in the next stitch.

The stitch total is 36 stitches for round 3.

In the 4th round, you will be making two TR stitches in between each increase. Can you see? It goes 2TR 1TR 1TR 2TR all the way around.

Now we are ready to make the circle into the square.This is done by using different height stitches.

I find it easiest to start this round in a different place. So, to begin with, tie your yarn around your hook as if you were starting something new.

Step 1: Insert hook through any stitch.

Step 2: Chain three. This counts as 1TR.

Step 3: Chain another four. This gives you a total of 7 stitches – 3 count as a TR, and four count as a corner space. This bit of chaining is in fact making the last TR and the last corner space of the round, but it will make sense in a little while. I promise :-)

Step 4: In the next stitch, make 2TR stitches. (The chain 7 may look a little squiffy but don’t worry about that, it will right itself.)

** Click here to see how to make HTR and DC stitches  **

Step 5: Work 1TR into the next stitch

Step 6: Work 1HTR (half treble) into the next stitch, and the one after that.

Step 7: Work 1DC stitch into each of the next four stitches.

Step 8: Work 1HTR into each of the next two stitches.

Step 9: Work 1TR into the next stitch, and then 2TRs into the following stitch.

Step 10: Chain 4 and then work 2TRs into the next stitch.

Can you see how we the stitches are different heights, and that they are symmetrical?

There are 48 stitches on the circle, which means each side of the square is allowed 12 stitches to work from.

The corners are made by chaining 4, and then the stitch pattern is:

2Tr  1TR  1HTR  1HTR  1DC  1DC  1DC  1DC  1HTR  1HTR  1TR  2TR

Repeat the stitches all the way around.

When you get to Step 13, you only need to make 1TR into this space because the chain stitches that are already there will count as your last TR stitch. Remember how I said it would make sense doing that chain 7 to begin? Well this is why.

Slip stitch into the third chain of that big chain 7. Tie off, cut your yarn and VOILA! A square with a beautiful circle in the middle.

Beautiful!

If you enlarge this photo, you can see the stitch definition nice and clearly.

A couple of things to note here:

I am going to block all of these squares. This is partly because my circles look like sombrero hats because they are pointy in the middle and cuppy at the sides. Blocking fixes this. My chain four corners benefit from blocking as well, because they like to curl over if you don’t. The photo above has not been blocked yet, but the pins are in place ready to block it.

This square has been made using Rowan Pure Wool dk in the following colours:

Gilt, Tangerine (discontinued), Dahlia, Lavender (discontinued) and Avocado.

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