Yarn: Jarol Heritage DK in four shades (Teal = shade 131, Kingfisher = shade 136, Green = shade 137 and Red = shade 102). This is a wool/acrylic/nylon mix and is lovely to work with. It’s a little bit catchy on your hook but works up very well and is quite soft for a woolly yarn. It comes in nice 100g balls as well. I got mine from Top Wools/Twisted Stitches in Barnsley.
Sorry for unsharp photos, I tried to catch the light when I got home yesterday but it was rubbish.
I made both sides the same and then joined it by holding it wrong sides together and slip stitching the back loops only together. I went as far round as I could without the cushion in, because it’s a lot harder to join with the cushion inside. Then I squished the cushion a bit to stuff it in and then fluffed it out again, before finishing joining. I’m really rather pleased with it! I only started it on Saturday afternoon and I finished it at er, 11pm on Sunday night sitting in bed very tiredly but determinedly thinking ” I WILL finish this today! I WILL finish this today!”
What I will do next time is use a smaller hook to make the overall result denser. I don’t like how you can see the cushion through the stitches really, these photos don’t show it but you can see it in real life. I also think that my joining is messy. I didn’t start each round in the same place each time as I was trying to avoid getting on obvious line but it means that I’ve got lots of obvious lumpy messy bits where I’ve joined each round. Next time I’m going to investigate Sarah London’s technique of doing a seamless join. When I saw this ages ago I thought it was really faffy looking and that a visible line surely wouldn’t bother me that much. I was wrong! The messy bits DO bother me a lot more than I thought so next time I will get out my trusty darning needle for some seamless joining action. Wish me luck.
So would you like to know what it was that I was doing wrong?
Yep … I was working in between the stitches instead of out of the stitches! I had been working off of Lucy’s pattern and was so absolutely sure that I should be working between the stitches. I was telling Lucy about my sparkling revelation while following Siobhan’s instructions that I should be working out of the stitches, all proud like, and Lucy goes … “erm, you are meant to be working out of the stitches in my pattern!” “Noooo!” I said, “In your pattern, the photos show it working out of between the stitches!” I was 100% sure of this you see, having spent hours AND HOURS trying to get a bloody circle to LIE FLAT DAMMIT.
But upon double checking the pattern with fresh eyes I discovered that in fact I was wrong.
I really hate being wrong you know. It’s pretty low down on my list of things to be. It comes below things like “being the one who always washes up” and “being cold” and “being smelly.”
But never mind, because I HAVE A ROUND CUSHION! Who’s going to join me in saying “Hurrah for round cushions and flat circles!” ?
Now, so that you can all make some flat circles too, here is Siobhan’s comment in full:
Not sure if this will help or maybe you are doing this anyway. This is a circle using a formula, that you can use to make any size circle from. Sometimes you may need to adjust slightly but I have never had to. If your circle tightens inwards then you have too few increases for your circle. If it is floppy and curling outwards you have too many stitches.
Ch 6 and join in ring with ss.
Round 1: 3 ch (counts as a treble), 11 trebles into ring, ss in top of beginning chain (12 stitches)
Round 2: 3 ch (counts as a treble), 1 treble in ss – at the base of the 3 chains you have just made; (this counts as your first increase by crocheting 2 trebles in one stitch), 2 trebles in each treble of round 1, ss in top of beg ch (24 stitches)
Round 3: 3 ch (counts as a treble), 2 trebles in next treble, (1 treble in next treble, 2 trebles in next treble) 11 times, ss in top of beg ch (36 stitches).
To continue, increase in every 3rd stitch on round 4, every 4th stitch on round 5 and so on, increasing by 12 stitches on each round. If you want you can do the increases the opposite way around: example round 3 – instead of doing chain 3 (which counts as a treble) in first stitch and then your 2 trebles in the next stitch, you can do two trebles in the first stitch (your chain 3 will be the first of them) and then treble one in the next stitch and so on, still making sure you do 12 increases in the row. Both work fine. If your circle starts looking hexagonish it is recommended that you alternate the two, so one row you start with your increases and the next row you start with just one treble in each stitch and then do your increases of two trebles in one stitch. I have not had to do this. I made 2 nice berets with this formula, which comes from one of my books but is also in others or on-line. Some books just tell you to increase equally at intervals but don\’t tell you where, or how often – not helpful!
I have used English crochet terms.
If you start your circle smaller – say with 8 trebles into a 4 chain ring (including your ch 3 which counts as the first treble), then the principle remains the same; every row you increase by the amount of stitches you have. So in this example you would go from 8 trebles on round 1 to 16 on round 2 and 24 on round 3. The way you make your increases is the same in all cases.
Hope this is helpful, it really does work (for me anyway but it does depend on whether or not I\’ve explained it properly!)
Isn\’t it horrible having boring work to do instead of the things you want to be getting on with? Still they can\’t stop you thinking about those hexagons any time you want can they? Hope you sort out your circles!